Want Oaxacan? - A Restaurant Review of Guelaguetza

Want Oaxacan? - A Restaurant Review of Guelaguetza

Authentic Mexican food - This ain't no Taco Bell, folks!
Original posting: May 2003 Issue

by CATHERINE GARCIA, staff writer

11127 Palms Blvd.
Los Angeles, Ca 90034
(310) 837-1153
Care for some authentic Oaxacan food? Drop by Guelaguetza—a small, humble restaurant located on Sawtelle and Palms.
I thought I had walked into a convenience store when I entered the restaurant. I was greeted by a smiling face behind a glass counter filled with candy and other goodies. I walked further into the restaurant and saw two long tables covered with colorful Oaxacan clothes for sale. The walls were lined with more ethnic dresses and blouses, as well as small shelves of Oaxacan art and artifacts. Past the tables of clothes and the cluttered goods, I took a seat and I was handed a menu of a variety of authentic Oaxacan dishes.

You could start off with a large appetizer, botana oaxaqueña—a sampler platter with Oaxacan string cheese, memelas, sausage, salted beef, pork, stuffed chili, and fried pork ribs. I began my dining experience with a horchata—a sweet rice drink with chopped cantaloupe, nuts, and red cactus fruit puree, and champurrado—a thick chocolate drink served with corn dough.

I also ordered two of the restaurant’s specials—tazajo con hongos encebollados, and chorizo especial. The tazajo dish was good—salted beef round, sliced thin, smothered with sauteed mushrooms and onions. The chorizo dish, round pork sausages flavored with chile and herbs, was a little on the dry side; nevertheless, the chile and lemon gave the dish a very rich flavor. Among other specials were the cecina especial—grilled chile paste-marinated pork leg, and the pechuga de pollo enchilado—grilled or fried chile-marinated chicken breast.

Guelaguetza also offers a number of off-menu items. Feeling a little adventurous, I ordered fried grasshoppers. Imagining a dish of breaded bugs, or at least chocolate-covered grasshoppers, but I was a little intimidated to see grasshoppers in the flesh--no crispy batter, no chocolate, no extra garnish to hide the crispy legs and the antennae. The dish had no flavor except for a burst of salty juice; but if you’re for the whole satisfying crunch thing, be my guest. Guelaguetza also offers a small dessert menu. You could try their plantanos fritos—fried plantains topped with sour cream and walnuts. I recommend the flan napolitano (flan Oaxacan style).

Guelaguetza has some very flavorful dishes and interesting off-menu items for the daring soul, which almost compensated for the cluttered, bustling ambiance, as well as the dent these items left in my wallet. (appetizers range from $25.00 (for 2 people) to $6.00 and specials were around $9.00). It’s definitely a unique ethnic dining experience you won’t find anywhere else in L.A!

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