Old Fashions, New Twists - Panamanian Clothing

Old Fashions, New Twists - Panamanian Clothing
Original posting: April 2003 Issue


by CAROLINE OUYANG, staff writer
Traditional
While Panamanian influence is currently accessorizing the style-conscientious with elaborate dangling earrings ranging from classy and elegant to ethnic and wild (think Hollywood starlets sporting prominent lobe ornaments), these flashy earrings have only evolved from slightly less exotic renditions which once accompanied Panama's traditional costume for women: the pollera. The pollera, which generally consists of a ruffled, ¾ sleeved boat neck, off-shoulder blouse and long, full, two or three layered ruffled skirt, is believed to have originated from Spanish sixteenth to seventeenth century influence, though its exact origin is uncertain. While some believe the pollera was originally worn by Spanish servants, still others claim it has always been stylistically native to Old Panama. Regardless of its beginning, the pollera today is a highly esteemed and culturally rich article of clothing still worn by women mainly for festivities or special events.

There are several different styles of pollera available due primarily to provincial origins or differences in materials used and detail. Perhaps the most intricate and elaborate version of the dress is the formal pollera de gala, worn only for special occasions and holidays. The material used for the formal pollera de gala usually is very fine white linen. Traditionally, the fabric is completely white in order to enhance the contrasting appliqués and embroideries stitched along the dress. Needlework patterns typically include nature-inspired designs such as floral garlands. Pompoms made of colored wool are attached to the center front and back neckline of the blouse; same colored wool as the pompom is woven along the neckline, and two ribbons, also the same color as the pompoms, are attached to the front and back of the waistline. Both the blouse neckline and sleeves as well as the edge of the skirt of the pollera de gala can be embellished with various sorts of lace a few inches wide. Soft satin shoes worn with the outfit should be of the same color as the pompoms.

The formal ensemble is completed with a multitude of jeweled and metallic accessories. A woman wearing the pollera de gala is bedecked with earrings, several necklaces, and multiple hair ornaments. Large earrings of varying shapes are made of gold or silver filigree and usually sparkle with semi-precious jewels. Necklaces worn generally consist of six to seven chains; in fact, lucky number seven is usually the minimum number of chains necessary before the accessories can be considered complete. The elaborate hairstyle that complements the pollera de gala is no less, if not more so, extravagant than that of a starlet attending a special Hollywood awards ceremony. Hair is divided and plaited into two sections and tied with ribbon. Intricate golden combs and delicate hair ornaments, or tembleques, designed to represent flowers made of fine coiled wire, pearls, beads, satin, or silk flowers practically cover the sides and back of the woman's head.

What, then, do men wear to accompany the splendidly attired women? Following a trend which seems to occur in many cultures, the traditional Panamanian mens' costume is much simpler and less intricate than the womens' pollera. The origin of the montuno is believed to be inspired by the Indian natives from Panama.
Although less extensive in detail, the montuno is also available in more than one style (two, to be exact). There are still varying versions of the montuno, however, mainly dependent on location and fabric used. The formal camisella style consists of a white, slightly loose fitting long sleeved cotton shirt with a slightly upward turned collar. This shirt is paired with navy or black knee-length trousers. The front and back of the shirt are embellished with either brightly colored embroidery or a row of fine tucks. Typical of men from many cultures, accessories to this attire are few: a shallow brimmed straw hat and white lightweight shoes made of canvas and leather complete the formal wear.

Contemporary
The contemporary man's shirt retains different-patterned though similar needlework features and a flat collar a la Panama's informal montuno. Modernizations to the shirt include cuffs to the short sleeves and a more fitted style. While embroidery along the bottom of the trousers remains more or less true to the original, the trousers have been lengthened and include belt loops. Accessories which complement the attire include a leather belt with a large oval buckle and leather sandals.

The woman's dress obviously is no longer a pollera, but influences from the pollera are evident in the short, one shoulder dress. A more modern and revealing ruffled top in addition to the ruffled hem of the dress are inspired by the pollera. Like the appliques and embroideries which grace the pollera, the garland on this design is also inspired by nature; however, unlike the original, which ran horizontally, the modern version spans diagonally along the midsection of the dress. The outfit is completed with a simiple flower tucked behind the ear and stilleto sandals embellished with a small flower at the toe of each sandal.

The fitted capri pants the woman wears has two ruffled tiers composed of a lightweight material; the ruffles have small embroidery patterns which are attributed to the pollera. Although her top is very contemporary in an era of exposed midriffs, the influence from the pollera is seen in the off-shoulder, slightly frilled short sleeves. A small pom-pom is attached to the center of the neckline, another feature of the belly-baring top mimicking the pollera. Accessories the woman wears include large earrings, a chain necklace with a medallion attached to it, and high wedge platform sandals laced to the ankles.


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