TRAVELOGUE - Esfahan (in Iran)

TRAVELOGUE - Esfahan (in Iran)

Things you MUST do if you ever travel to Esfahan, Iran

Original posting: December 2003 Issue

by DEAN GRANSAR, staff writer

Iran is tourist country. There are many cultural and historical places that people associate with Islamic fanaticism. However, before I start to describe one of Iran's cities, I should clarify a simple misconception people have about the country and people.Iran is not a place where people wear towels around their heads and ride on camels. It is not a country where native tribes are in constant rivalries for wells and water. Get the word desert out of your head. Second, Airan and Airaq are not the same; they have nothing to do with each other. They sound quite different when spoken in their native tongues. There are many things such as these that many people don¡¯t know about Iran. The best way to learn is to travel to Iran and experience its different cultures and people. Persians¡ÂȘthe residents of Iran¡ÂȘare famous for their hospitality and being swayed by compliments. They are a warm and loving people, and they love Americans. Yes! Most are loving and fond of Americans, despite what we have come to think.

Now let's talk about of the ancient cities in Iran - Esfahan.Esfahan lies in the heart of Iran. It is impossible to say you have visited Iran without having visited this ancient city. It is a reflection of many different historical periods. There is so much here that is interesting for travelers that it has been coined ¡°Half of the World¡± (Esfahan nesfe jahan). There is so much to see that it is recommended that you get a guide or do some research beforehand. In addition to the places mentioned here, there are many gardens, schools, and museums that are also well worth visiting.

Naqsh-e-Jahan Square: This square, meaning "pattern of the world", is an open field surrounded by structures all around where the king would receive guests and perhaps watch a game of polo. To get a good feel of it, rent a cart and take it around the square. The small shops making handicrafts and the structures (Imam mosque, Aliqapu, Sheikh-Lotfollah mosque and the old bazaar) are really all pieces of art. The vaulted ceilings, exquisite tile-works and mosaics work with space and light creating a mood that must be experienced to be understood. When you look at the vaults, the pattern revolves around the center (representing God) and everything else (the universe) surrounding it. Astronomically many of these structures correspond to each other and were well thought out. This perfection is typical of structures built in the Islamic era.

Bazaar: Go to the market and get some "soghati" as Persians call souvenirs. You’ll find just about anything in old-fashioned markets: from eatables to clothes and artifacts. There are many exotic foods - feel free to explore. But while you are there, you may want to eat some traditional ice cream and paloode - cold noodles with ice mixed in and flavored like lemonade. It is so cold that it can crack your teeth!

Chehel Sotoun: The name, which means 40 pillars, borrows 20 of them from its reflection in the pool located in the front. It is customary of many ancient buildings to have a pool in front of them. This works as a cooler in addition to being the center of the household where every room is connected. The Chehel Sotoun was used for kings¡¯ receptions but has also been a small museum housing many ancient artworks such as miniatures, paintings. Of course, the structure itself is a masterpiece with friezes describing the court and war exploits and a pair of doors from the palace that are currently on display in a museum in England.

Si-o-Se pol or Bridge of 33 Arches: This bridge was built at the beginning of the 17th century. This 45 foot wide and 175 yard structure is a continuation of one of the main streets that go across the Zayandeh Rud (river). If the water level is not too high you can walk on the bottom side portion (you may have to take off your shoes otherwise). At the end there is a place you can smoke hookah or drink tea.The following places are not in the actual city of Esfahan but are in close proximity to the city.

Atash-gah: Or "place of fire" is where fire was kept in a small house on the top of a hill. Fire is one of the holy elements in Zoroastrian religion, and in the pre-Islamic era this was a place of worship for Zoroastrians. The Zoroastrian New Year festival is still being practiced every year around March 21st. I personally regard the place to be holy. Climbing up to the top of the hill could be a transforming experience. This place is 7 kilometers out of Esfehan.

Menar Jonban " SHAKING MINARETS" is how the name translates. Yes, the minarets (the actual towers of the holy building) shake. Every two hours some one climbs up on the top of one minaret and swings back and forth ¨C the whole structure (including the other minaret) trembles. The building is made of bricks, which support each other in an unusual way. Once you're there you can go up the stairs of minarets and watch this scene from the roof.

Takht-e-Jamshid: Or Persepolise, as Greeks called it, is the magnificent ruins of the capital of the Persian Empire. It was founded by Darius I (550-486 B.C.) and later on completed by Xerxes and Artaxerxes. The structures are still standing after being burned by Alexander the Great in 330 B.C. This structured was made on the rise of the mountain. It is a great place to sit and reflect (and don't forget to watch the sunset!). This is not in Esfahan but still within driving distance. It took me the whole day to go and come back, but I assure you that it's worthwhile to check it out when you are already that close to it.

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